In today’s market, there are hundreds of cowboy hat styles and designs available. You can even customize different edge shapes to make yours more unique, making cowboy hats an essential accessory for cowboys or cowgirl to express their personal style and individuality. When deciding to purchase a cowboy hat from a western supply store, it’s easy to feel confused by the vast selection. This article will introduce some basic knowledge about selecting and maintaining cowboy hats, which should help guide your purchase decision.
Table of Contents
Types of Cowboy Hat Materials
Cowboy hats can be made from many different materials, including felt, wool, leather, suede, ramie, and palm leaves. For felt hats specifically, manufacturers use various animal furs, primarily rabbit fur, mink, or beaver fur.
Naturally, felt and wool cowboy hats are typically worn during fall and winter seasons, while ramie and palm leaf cowboy hats are better suited for hot summer months. While this isn’t an absolute rule, few people would choose to wear a straw hat during the cold winter.
It’s worth remembering that all these materials have their own advantages and disadvantages. The material you should choose for your cowboy hat depends entirely on your personal preferences. If you select a felt cowboy hat, the most important indicator is the X rating on the hat. Basically, the higher the X value, the higher the proportion of fur (usually mink) used in making the hat. Generally, this means higher quality and often a more expensive price tag.
Some famous brands use mixed materials made from fur and wool felt. These are popular because they help the hat maintain its shape better. These hats are also ideal for winter, as felt materials keep the head warm in lower temperatures.
Don’t think that straw cowboy hats are always cheap. While there are many affordable straw cowboy hats available, high-quality ramie and fine weaving craftsmanship can still make straw hats quite costly. Straw cowboy hats are more suitable for summer use compared to other materials.
Pure wool cowboy hats generally aren’t as stiff or shapely as fur felt cowboy hats, and most wool cowboy hats cannot be reshaped using high-temperature steam, so very few cowboy hats are made from pure wool. However, wool hats have the advantage of being foldable for storage, making them more portable than rabbit or mink fur felt hats.
Leather or suede cowboy hats are newer products in recent years. Leather cowboy hats are waterproof and extremely durable. Their biggest disadvantage is that they can be stuffy in summer. Suede cowboy hats can be dyed in many bold and vibrant colors, making them suitable for performance occasions. Colors like oxblood red, purple, and green are difficult to find in hats made from other materials.
What Does X Represent?
Is the X on your cowboy hat important?
As mentioned above, when you decide to purchase a felt cowboy hat, pay special attention to the X specification. So what does X mean?
Many people have experienced this situation when browsing different western equipment stores. They find that similar-looking felt cowboy hats have vastly different prices. Lower-priced ones around $40-50, while others are priced at over several thousand dollars. This significant price difference is due to the different raw materials used. Felt cowboy hats are typically made by mixing special materials like rabbit, beaver, and mink fur with basic materials like wool felt.
The X value on cowboy hats indicates the percentage of special material mixed into the hat material. A hat might be labeled 4X, 6X, 10X and 30X.
This hat quality rating system was first used by the Stetson company. Over time, many companies began to follow this practice. It’s worth noting that while reputable companies like Stetson maintain relatively stable standards for ratings, many companies use different standards. For instance, I’ve seen hats marked with 200X-1000X, which is clearly that brand’s own system, requiring specific research when shopping.
In most cases, felt cowboy hats with higher X values indicate higher quality and a higher proportion of beaver and mink fur, making them more expensive. Additionally, you should try to choose reputable brands to ensure reliable X system labeling, such as established brands like Stetson, Resistol, and Twister Hat Company.
Straw cowboy hats also use X quantities to indicate hat quality, though this obviously doesn’t mean the hat contains fur. In fact, the X on straw cowboy hats shows the tightness of the weave and the narrowness of the weaving material. More X’s indicate tighter weaving and finer materials. So, similar to felt hats, a higher X value generally means better hat quality.
Different Styles of Cowboy Hats
From a practical standpoint, crown creases make it easier to grip and handle the hat. Cowboys in windy regions often preferred peaked crowns to improve aerodynamics, while some turned up the front brim for better visibility. Others curled the sides of the brim to allow greater arm movement without knocking off their hats.
Though these modifications might seem minor, each style carries unique significance and functionality that has shaped cowboy hats into what we see today. Specific cowboy hat shapes can even indicate a person’s occupation or regional origin.
Today’s hat shaping is typically done using a steam pot to soften the areas you want to shape, followed by air drying. Alternatively, you can use hot water to soften the hat before shaping and drying. For better setting, you can secure the hat with clothing or scarves, or use modern styling sprays.
Below are some classic cowboy hat styles. Some serve functional purposes, while others are purely aesthetic customizations. An unprocessed hat with no creases is called an “open crown” – essentially a blank canvas for cowboy hat styling.
Cattleman
The most popular and traditional cowboy hat crease style that has survived since the Old West. It features a taller but narrower crown, typically 4-5 inches high, with one crease down the middle of the crown and one on each side. This classic style is frequently chosen by cowboys for weddings and formal events.
Cutter
Named after the competitive sport of “cutting” (separating cattle on horseback), the Cutter is a variation of the Cattleman. It pushes the three indentations horizontally upward to provide more headroom for the wearer.
Bull-Rider
Also known as the RCA (Rodeo Cowboy Association Crease), this style is designed for rodeo competitions. The crown top is pushed inward to create a flat top, with slight pinches on the sides to secure the hat to the head. The brim curves upward on both sides in a gentle roll, allowing for extensive movement during roping and other activities. It’s a variation of the Canadian Crease.
Â
Ridge Top
Features a more prominent and elevated ridge than the Cattleman style.
Mountie (Peak/Montana Peaked)
A distinctive style with four ridges extending downward from the center of the crown, with either flat or curved brims. Originally created by pinching the top with four fingers. This crown crease goes by many names. After 1904, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police contracted with Stetson to supply this style as standard uniform gear.
GUS (Montana/Carlsbad Crease)
A classic style sometimes called the Montana crease (originating from Montana ranches) or Carlsbad crease. It became famous as the “GUS” after being worn by a character in the TV series “Lonesome Dove.” This style features a higher and wider back of the crown with a steeper, narrower front and three creases.
Pinch Front (Duke)
This crease comes in two crown forms: a teardrop shape or a diamond shape. Common in Fedoras and Trilbys, the front of the crown is pinched to a point while the back is wider. John Wayne frequently wore this style, hence the “Duke” nickname.
Telescope/Gambler
Originating with Mexican cowboys in the Southwest, this style features a low crown for better heat dissipation and a wide brim for sun protection. The crown can be pointed or rounded. “Telescope” refers to the nested appearance, though “Gambler” sounds more appealing. The key characteristic is a very flat top with a slightly curved brim.
Â
Square D (Brick)
The crown is folded into a rectangular shape, sometimes in double layers. A common cowboy style.
Tom Mix
Named after silent Western film actor Tom Mix, this style features a “pencil roll” brim (a full curl around the edge). Popular among country singers, it has a more refined appearance.
Roy Rogers
Named after the “King of the Cowboys” singer and actor Roy Rogers, who always wore this style. It features a hard ridge pinched at the front of the crown with a teardrop-shaped double telescope on top.
Â
Mule Kick
Characterized by an indentation on the front, this style has an interesting name reflecting its unique appearance.
Biggs
A combination of the Cattleman and Bull-Rider styles. The center crease of the crown is larger, with smaller side creases. The two ridges are pinched firmly, and the brim curl is sharp at the front with a natural curve at the back. This style is commonly used for straw hats.
Oreana
Possibly related to the Oreana mountains, this style differs from the Montana Peak with three indentations – two in front and one in back.
Horseshoe
A less common but interesting style resembling its namesake.
With these various styles and shaping techniques, you can customize your cowboy hat to reflect your personal style, regional heritage, or professional identity. Whether for practical purposes or fashion statement, your uniquely creased cowboy hat becomes an extension of your personality and Western tradition.
How to Measure for a Cowboy Hat?
After selecting a style you like, it’s important to measure your head size! A properly fitted cowboy hat should sit securely on your head – stable enough not to blow away in a light breeze, but not so tight that it squeezes your forehead uncomfortably.
Here’s how you can measure your head to determine your hat size:
What You’ll Need:
- A flexible measuring tape (like the kind used for sewing).
- Alternatively: A piece of non-stretchy string or ribbon and a ruler or rigid tape measure.
- A mirror (optional, but helpful).
Steps for Measuring:
-
Position the Tape (or String):
- Place the end of the measuring tape (or string) in the middle of your forehead, just above your eyebrows.
- Wrap the tape around your head, keeping it level.
- Make sure it goes just above the tops of your ears.
- Continue around the back of your head, ensuring you’re measuring the widest part. The tape should sit comfortably where a hat would naturally rest.
-
Ensure Proper Tension:
- The tape should be snug, but not tight. It shouldn’t dig into your skin. You should be able to comfortably fit one finger under the tape.
- Make sure the tape isn’t twisted.
-
Read the Measurement:
- Look at the point on the tape where the end meets the wrapped portion. Read the measurement in either inches or centimeters (most hat sizing charts use both, but it’s good to note which unit you used).
- If using string: Carefully pinch the point where the end of the string meets the wrapped portion. Without letting it slip, lay the string flat against your ruler or rigid tape measure and measure the length from the end to your marked point.
-
Measure Again (Optional but Recommended):
- For accuracy, it’s a good idea to measure two or three times to ensure you get a consistent result.
Converting Your Measurement to Hat Size:
Once you have your head circumference measurement (in inches or centimeters), you’ll need to convert it to your hat size. Cowboy hat sizes can be listed in several ways:
- Inches or Centimeters: Some hats are sold simply by the head measurement.
- Alpha Sizing (S, M, L, XL): This is common for casual hats.
- Numerical Hat Size (e.g., 6 â…ž, 7, 7 â…›, 7 ÂĽ): This is standard for fitted caps and many traditional men’s hats.
How to Find Your Size:
- Check the Brand/Retailer’s Chart: This is the most important step. Different brands and even different styles within a brand can have slightly different sizing. Always look for the specific size chart provided by the manufacturer or retailer of the hat you intend to buy.
- General Hat Size Charts: You can find general hat size conversion charts online by searching for “cowboy hat size chart” or “cowboy hat dimensions”. These give you a good starting point.
Example of General Conversions (Approximate – Always check specific charts):
Tips for a Good Fit:
- Don’t pull the tape too tight: You want the hat to be comfortable, not constricting.
- Consider your hairstyle: While you measure close to your head, very thick hair might slightly affect fit.
- If you fall between sizes: Check the retailer’s recommendation. Often, it’s suggested to go up to the next larger size, especially for hats that don’t stretch. You can always add hat sizing tape inside the sweatband if a hat is slightly too loose.
By following these steps, you can accurately measure your head and find the hat size that will give you the most comfortable fit.
Cowboy Hat Storage & Care
Before purchasing a cowboy hat, it’s also important to understand proper storage and cleaning methods to ensure your investment lasts for years.
How To Store a Cowboy Hat?
There are several ways to properly store a cowboy hat. The most economical method is to use its original box—the paper box the hat came in when purchased. If you find this too ordinary or inconvenient for carrying, getting a hat box is essential, especially if you’ve bought a high-end mink felt hat. Hat boxes come in many different colors and are mostly made of hard plastic. If you need to travel long distances with your cowboy hat, such boxes are the best choice.
Generally, straw hats and wool blend hats don’t come with hat boxes. You can use a cowboy hat holder or hat rack to hang the hat for storage, which prevents the edges from flattening, or hang it on a sufficiently long hook. If you need to temporarily remove your hat while out, such as when dining at a restaurant, it’s best to find a hook or place the hat upside down on the table (don’t place it crown-down on the table), which also prevents the edges from flattening.
Never expose your cowboy hat to high temperatures from stoves, radiators, light fixtures, car windows, or enclosed vehicles. The combination of high heat and perspiration can cause the sweatband to shrink and contract. This shrinkage not only affects the comfortable fit of your hat but can also lead to permanent deformation of the hat’s structure. Heat exposure can additionally damage the materials, causing felt to become brittle or straw to dry out and crack.
To preserve your hat’s shape, quality, and longevity, always store it in a cool, dry place away from direct heat sources and sunlight. When traveling with your hat in hot weather, consider using a hat box for protection rather than leaving it exposed in your vehicle.
How to Clean Your Cowboy Hat?
For felt cowboy hats, a dry sponge or soft brush is the best choice for cleaning. First, let the hat air dry naturally, avoiding high temperatures and direct sunlight. Then use a dry soft brush or sponge to remove dust from the hat. We don’t recommend washing felt hats with water yourself. If water must be used, apply it minimally with a sponge and test on a small area first.
The sweatband inside the hat can be wiped with a damp sponge. Sweat stains that penetrate the absorbing lining are very difficult to clean. For this reason, we often see work hats used in many competitive performance activities being replaced frequently to extend the hat’s lifespan. If you plan to wear your hat outside for long periods, consider wearing a “Dri-Lex” sweatband, which lasts longer and stays cool. Some large cowboy hat manufacturers also sell sweat-absorbing hat ring products.
Straw hats are relatively easier to clean, you can wipe away stains with a damp cloth and maintain the shape while drying.Â
Conclusion
As you can see, there are many factors to consider when choosing a cowboy hat. Different materials, brands, sizes, prices, and styles must be considered before making the wisest choice. I hope that through all the tips above, you’ll have a direction for your thoughts and know what kind of cowboy hat you need.